MANI SS 2013 "BAPTISM"

Dear fashionistas, as you probably know on Thursday, 22.11.2012. I presented my first collection at Dreft Fashion Week Zagreb called "Baptism." For now, I bring you pictures from the show, and soon I’ll publish the details so that all of you, who haven’t had the opportunity to see the show live, will be able to see the collection up close.

Enjoy!

Dragi moji, kao što i sami znate u četvrtak, 22.11.2012. predstavio sam svoju prvu kolekciju na Dreft Fashion Week-u Zagreb pod nazivom “Baptism”. Za sada vam donosim slike revije, a uskoro i slike detalja kako bi svi koji nisu imali priliku pogledati kolekciju uživo mogli vidjeti dtealje izbliza.

Uživajte!

Mani

 

 

Posebne zahvale:

mentorica- Minja Maretić Murtić

krojačice- Milka i Đurđa

Uriho

manekenke- Ana B, Dora H, Andrea Z, Kim K, Anita D, Paula P, Željka B, Mia P, Tea M, Ema K

cijelom Dreft i Fashion Week Zagreb timu

fotografima- Srđan Vrančić, Goran Matijašec

Mirta Bajzek

Darka Franić i njenom timu

Ivica Palinić

make-up - Žana Kožul

muzika- Nina Maštruko

Antonia Ponoš

volonterima Nives Bošnjak, Damir Begović

blogerima i novinarima na velikoj podršci

svima koji su glasovali za mene

 

 

 

Photos by: fashionweekzagreb.com; fashion.hr

MANI SS 2013 "BAPTISM" teaser

The collection "Baptism" is my first collection as the winner of the Dreft Next Generation contest that will be presented within this season’s Dreft Fashion Week Zagreb.

I found my inspiration in the Ludwig Mies van der Rohe's architecture, one of the architects of the Bauhaus. Simplicity, transparency of materials, structural shapes, refined lines and an architectural approach to designing clothing pieces are trademark features of this collection. "Less is more."

With this teaser campaign, I present two models that contain the complete aesthetics of the "Baptism"  collection. Combination of raw architecture and futuristic designs created a collapse that gave a special touch to the entire campaign. Despite of this inspiration, femininity and sex appeal are still retained, but this time more subtle. Also, the special dynamic of the photos is achieved by a play of light and shadow that appears in the background.

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Kolekcija „Baptism“ je moja prva kolekcija koju ću kao pobjednik DNG natječaja predstaviti u sklopu ovosezonskog Dreft Fashion Week-a. Inspiraciju sam pronašao u arhitekturi Ludwig Mies van der Rohea, jednog od arhitekata Bauhausa. Jednostavnost, transparentnost materijala, strukturalni oblici, pročišćene linije te arhitektonski pristup oblikovanju odjevnih komada, zaštitna su obilježja ove kolekcije. „Less is more.“

Najavnom kampanjom predstavio sam dva modela koja sadrže potpunu estetiku kolekcije „BAPTISM“.  Minimalizam, jednostavnost, pročišćene linije i strukturalni detalji glavni su elementi u ovoj kolekciji. Kombinacijom sirove arhitekture i futurističkog dizajna nastao je kolaps koji cijeloj kampanji daje poseban touch. Unatoč takvoj inspiraciji, ženstvenost i seksipil su i dalje zadržani, ali ovoga puta suptilno. Posebnu dinamičnost fotografijama daje igra svjetlosti i sjena koja se pojavljuje u pozadini.

 

Mani

 

 

MODEL: Ana Buljević

MAKE UP: Sara Marđetko i Ana Pečanić, Profokus

HAIR: Darka Franić, Hair doctors academy

PHOTO: Srđan Vrančić

MANI No.5

A very important part of any collection is casting. The selection of models for the show sends a message, conveys the idea and a sense of collection that appeals to a specific audience…

When I looked at previous collections I always paid a lot of attention to models. The overall feel of the collection is very important and it's created by models. If they look good and walk even better they can literally convey the designer's vision. Likewise, a bad walk leaves a bad impression on the audience and thus undermines the entire presentation. I envisioned the make-up, hairstyle, chose the music, but I also paid special attention to the selection of models. I have tried to choose those girls that I believe will best express my vision. The cozy atmosphere and the large number of young, ambitious girls made my job easier.

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Jako bitan dio svake kolekcije je i casting. Odabirom manekenki za reviju šaljete određenu poruku, prenosite ideju i osjećaj kolekcije, odnosno apelirate na određenu publiku. Kada sam prethodno gledao kolekcije uvijek sam puno pažnje posvećivao manekenkama. Vrlo je važan cjelokupan dojam koji ostavlja kolekcija, a stvaraju ga upravo manekenke. Ako dobro izgledaju i još bolje hodaju mogu doslovno prenijeti dizajnerovu viziju. Isto tako loš hod ostavlja loš dojam na publiku i time narušava cijelu prezentaciju. Ništa nisam prepustio slučaju- osmislio make-up, frizure, muziku, a posebnu pažnju posvetio sam odabiru manekenki. Nastojao sam izabrati one djevojke za koje vjerujem da će najbolje iznijeti moju viziju. Ugodno okruženje i veliki broj mladih, ambicioznih djevojaka olakšao mi je posao.

Mani

 

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Photos by: fashionweekzagreb.com

MANI No.4

Finally I can say that most of the collection is done and very soon you'll see it on the Dreft Fashion Week Zagreb.

But let's go back in time for a while. After we brought sewing textile pieces to an end it was time for the leather ones. The leather, however, is a different story and it’s processing needs a lot more experience and understanding of the material, especially when you choose the one that is not normally used for garments. "It's too stiff, too thick, or, the models won't be able to wear it" were usually statements of my seamstresses. However, as I previously visualized the collection it was inevitable that I'll have to give my best for these pieces. Among other things, I included a few bags that required an unusually long time to create. It all started with test models, which, of course, I changed too many times. Often, it happened that after I approved sewing certain pieces, on my return home I would be frantically calling my seamstresses to stop production because I imagined a better solution. These are the little details that make this job more interesting and more fun.

I send you warm greetings till the next post.

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Konačno mogu reći da je većina kolekcije gotova i da se jako brzo vidimo na DFWZ-u.

Nego da se vratimo malo unazad. Nakon što smo priveli kraju šivanje tekstilnih komada red je došao i na one kožne. Koža je pak posebna priča i za njezino oblikovanje je potrebno puno više iskustva i razumijevanja materijala, naročito kada izaberete onu koja se uobičajeno ne koristi za odjevne predmete. „Previše je kruta, predebela ili pak, manekenke ju neće moći navući na sebe“ bile su najčešće izjave mojih krojačica. Međutim, kako sam predhodno vizualizirao kolekciju bilo je neizbježno da ću se oko ovih komada morati najviše potruditi. Između ostalog u ovu kolekciju sam uključio i nekoliko torbica koje iziskuju neobično puno vremena. Sve je krenulo sa nultim modelima koje sam, naravno, i previše puta prepravljao. Nerijetko se znalo dogoditi da nakon što odobrim šivanje određenog komada, pri povratku kući panično zovem i zaustavljam izradu jer sam zamislio neko bolje rješenje. Moram priznati da sam ostvario divnu suradnju s Urihom koji je imao puno razumijevanja za moje zahtjeve. To su male sitnice koje ovaj posao čine zanimljivijim i zabavnijim.

Šaljem vam puno pozdrava do sljedećeg posta.

Mani

 

Velike zahvale URIHU koji je odradio odličan posao, a rezultate ove suradnje pogledajte uskoro.

 

Special thanks to: URIHO

 

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Photos by: FI

MANI No.3

Now, when all the models are finally elaborated it is time to start the making of the collection…

Everything starts with putting tailored pieces onto tailoring dolls. It is very important to ignore the fact that this model is still an unformatted piece of material, and it is necessary to visualize a finished model. Real problems are occurring right here, personally, I think for every designer. It is very rare that the model in reality is exactly equal to what you have drawn or imagined. However, with a few changes and minimal compromise you are approaching your initial idea. In addition, seamstresses are equally important for facilitating the work of designers. Not to bore you, below you can see some photos of details from the collection.

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Sada, kada su konačno svi modeli razrađeni i većina materijala nabavljena vrijeme je za izradu. Sve započinje stavljanjem skrojenog modela na lutku. Vrlo je bitno zanemariti da je taj model još uvijek neoblikovan komad materijala i vidjeti ga kao gotov proizvod. Ovdje nastaju pravi probemi, osobno mislim za svakog dizajnera. Jako rijetko je model u stvarnosti potpuno jednak onome što ste nacrtali ili zamislili.  Međutim, uz nekoliko minimalnih promjena i kompromisa približavate se svojoj početnoj ideji. Osim toga veliku ulogu imaju šilice i krojači koji skidaju veliki teret sa dizajnerovih ramena. Da ne dužim, u nastavku možete pogledati nekoliko fotografija detalja iz kolekcije.

 

Mani

 

 

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Photos by: FI

MANI No. 2

In order to describe to you the project of designing my collection as realistically as I can I have to go back to the very beginning, the day when I was called and told that I had won…

The first thought that went through my head was, "What have I gotten myself into?" It is a great venture to make a collection and present it at a Fashion Week after just completing the first year of fashion design with zero experience in the making. All in all great work for one freshman. However, as the process started, I realized that I would have to learn fast, well extremely fast. Shortly after I started creating technical drawings, designing models even in details, including the make-up and hairstyle in order to better convey the idea and aesthetics of the collection. Meetings with factories, visiting fabric stores, shoe selection, and even ordering supplies from abroad that I was unable to find in Croatia followed. Often times even seamstresses would get angry with me because my choice of material was almost impossible to handle, however, we would always find some sort of common ground. When most of the material was ready, we started with the construction and manufacturing. Finally I was relieved and I realized that I am working on a quality collection, at least that I'll try to make it that way. Because of the holidays we decided to hold everything until September, by which time I managed to get most of the materials I was missing.

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Da bih vam što vjerodostojnije opisao samu izradu kolekcije moram se vratiti na sam početak, tj. na dan kada su me nazvali i javili da sam pobijedio. Prva misao koja mi je proletjela kroz glavu bila je“U što sam se to uvalio?“ Veliki je pothvat prihvatiti se izrade kolekcije i prezentacije na fashion week-u nakon tek završene prve godine modnog dizajna i s nula posto iskustva u izradi. Sve u svemu ogroman posao za jednog brucoša. Međutim, kako je proces krenuo shvatio sam da ću morati učiti brzo i to ekstremno brzo. Nedugo nakon toga počeo sam s izradom tehničkih skica, osmišljavanjem modela i do najsitnijih detalja, uključujući make-up i frizuru kako bi što vjernije prenio ideju i estetiku kolekcije. Uslijedili su sastanci s tvornicama, obilasci dućana s materijalima, odabir cipela, pa čak i naručivanje pribora iz inozemstva koji nisam uspio pronaći u Hrvatskoj. Često puta su se i šilice ljutile na mene zbog odabira materijala gotovo nemogućih za oblikovanje odjevnih predmeta, međutim, uvijek smo pronašli nekakvo zajedničko rješenje. Kada je većina materijala bila spremna počeli smo s konstrukcijom i izradom. Konačno mi je laknulo i shvatio sam da radim kvalitetnu kolekciju, tj. da ću se potruditi da bude takva. Zbog godišnjih odmora pomaknuli smo izradu za rujan, a do tada sam uspio nabaviti većinu materijala koji su mi nedostajali.

ps. u sljedećem post slike s fittinga

Mani

 

 

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Special thanks to: Sonja Jurak

Photos by: FI

MANI No. 1

Most of you already know I won the Dreft Next Generation competition for young designers. At the end of November I'll have the opportunity to present my collection at the Fashion Week Zagreb. I have to admit that I didn't know that fashion design is so much fun, but stressful at the same time, until I started making a collection...

This collection will introduce 10 models, although I could easily add another 100 to that, so I decided to complete the collection with a few handbags. Experimenting with materials, details and cuts, is so fun and inspiring that I wake up every day with new ideas. Several models from the collection have already been completed ​​and I can hardly wait to share them with you. For the crazier part of the collection I'll have to find the materials in Italy.

I will try to periodically publish the progress of the collection on the Fashion Week Zagreb blog, FI blog and our FB page.

For all collaborations and information about this collection, you can contact me at manibymanuel@gmail.com.

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Dragi moji,

Iako većina vas već zna, pobijedio sam na Dreft Next Generation natječaju za mlade dizajnere. Krajem 11. mjeseca imati ću priliku izlagati svoju kolekciju na Fashion Week Zagrebu. Moram vam priznati da nisam znao da je modni dizajn toliko zabavan, ali istovremeno i stresan, dok nisam počeo izrađivati kolekciju. U ovoj kolekciji predstaviti ću 10 modela iako bih najrađe dodao još 100 s toga sam odlučio upotpuniti kolekciju s nekoliko torbica. Igra s materijalima, detaljima i krojevima, toliko je zabavna i inspirirajuća da mi svakodnevno naviru nove ideje. Nekoliko modela iz kolekcije je već izrađeno i jedva ih čekam podijeliti s vama. Za ovaj luđi dio kolekcije materijale ću morati potražiti u Italiji.

Nastojati ću vas povremeno obaviještavati kako napreduje izrada kolekcije na Fashion Week Zagreb blogu, FI blogu i našoj FB stranici.

Za sve suradnje i informacije o kolekciji možete me kontatirati na manibymanuel@gmail.com.

Uskoro, obećajem, fotke izrade kolekcije! :)

 

Mani

 

 

 

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